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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. However, tucked near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.